Thursday, April 16, 2009

Kirtipur - a short introduction to the town:



Kirtipur sits strategically astride a narrow mountain ridge about 8 km south-west of Kathmandu City Centre, at a point commanding the old trade route to India. From here there is a magnificent view of Kathmandu. The substantially intact historic town plan indicates one of the oldest Newari settlements in the valley. History says that the ancient city of Kirtipur was founded by Shiva Deva between 1099 AD and 1126 AD and during the reign of the Malla Kingdom in the 15th century the city was developed for human settlement. Kirtipur's fortress was considered impregnable. The Gurkha King Prithvi Narayan Shah laid siege to it three times before 1768 A.D. finally taking the town and then, it is said, only after it had been betrayed. He exacted terrible revenge for heavy Gurkha losses - his brother was among those killed - by cutting off the nose and lips of every man and boy over the age of 12. Only wind-instrument players were spared - they were required to celebrate his triumph.

The line of the old town wall, pierced by 12 gates, is still clearly visible. Most of the townspeople were weavers and farmers, the lower castes living outside the wall. When Tribhuvan University was built below the town, many farmers lost their land and Kirtipur became poor. With a population today of about 35,000, its problems are legion.

Kirtipur spreads over two hilltops joined by a col. The Chilancho Stupa crowns the southernmost hill, the Uma Maheshvar Temple the higher, northern one. The Bagh Bhairav Temple is situated at the low point of the saddle. In the southern part of the town are a number of water tanks ensuring plentiful supplies, a testament to the skill of the town's medieval planners.

The town is not only of historic importance but is also important from the artistic point of view. Some of the finest temples, Chaityas and Stupas of the valley are scattered through this typically built Newari City. Surrounded by stone sculptures, masterpieces of Nepalese art, these shrines are the hub of festivals and religious ceremonies (Jatras).

Kirtipur - The City of Glory



A PLEASANTLY MAZE OF STONY ALLEYS

Kirtipur, set on a hilltop with a panoramic view of the Kathmandu Valley, is a well-preserved old town, vehicle-free and great for wandering.

Due to it's important location in the valley, this historical city resisted to several attaks but not to a 6 month siege. With no help from the neighbours from Patan, this Newar city surrender, expecting amnesty from the invador. Instead, in an atrocity intended to demoralize the remaining opposition in the valley, King Prithvi Shah ordered his troops to cut off the noses and lips of every man and boy in Kirtipur. The rest of the valley fell within a year. Kirtipur's residents still remember this episode and to this day the king and queen of Nepal are not alowed to enter the town.

Bagh Bhairab Mandir

This building serves a double duty as a war memorial and a cathedral. Dating from the early 16th century, it's one of the oldest and best preserved Newar pagodas in the valley.On the outside of the temple is a collection of weapons captured during the siege of Kirtipur, either by the Gorkhalis or the defenders, depending on whom you ask.

Uma-Maheshwar Mandir

At the top of the northern Hindu hump stands the elephant-guarded temple, with a great top view to all the Kathmandu Valley.